Gravel & Gold
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Babes of Marimekko: VUOKKO NURMESNIEMI

2 September 2014
Cassie McGettigan

VUOKKO NURMESNIEMI portrait by Juliana HarkkiPortrait of Vuokko by Juliana Harkki.

HER WORK
for Marimekko is what is best known by most. In 1953, the year she joined the company, she designed the stripe “Piccolo.” The print is comprised of one or two passes of stripes that can overlap to form a third color. This approach takes brilliant advantage of large-scale silkscreen printing, which she helped Marimekko to develop (and we now do, too). Smart minimalism and flexibility of design have been at the center of her work since.

Vuokko’s stripes were an immediate sensation. In 1956, Marimekko introduced the iconic Jokapoika (“Everyboy”) shirt as their first garment for men. Over the years, Vuokko has designed more than 300 colorways for “Piccolo” to be used for the shirts, from her original Mediterranean-inspired palette to black on white and everything in between. 

VUOKKO NURMESNIEMI jokapoika

Armi Ratia wearing Jokapoika

On the right here is Armi Ratia, the founder of Marimekko, in the late 1960s, out playing the model in one of the zillions of Jokapoika striped shirts she made. She, like many ladies, had no trouble borrowing from the men’s department. Though ”Piccolo” was also used for garments intended for women, such as the Kivijalkamekko dress, designed by Vuokko and shown here with Ilmari Tapiovaara’s egg sculpture in 1957.

VUOKKO NURMESNIEMI egg

Bouffanted visitors to scorched mediterranean locales who still always pack an umbrella, grumpy teenagers also expecting rain, kiddos–everybody!–got a great striped something.

Vuokko umbrella

Vuokko raincoat and kiddo

Here is Vuokko completing an installation of Marimekko goods at a gallery in Stockholm, in heels, in 1958. Bang story!

Vuokko in shop

Vuokko designed other patterns and shapes for Marimekko as well, including–I was surprised to learn–Iloinen takki, that dress with patch pockets that Marimekko first made in 1960 and still makes and adult women still wear. Vuokko intended the wee pockets to hold surprise gifts for the wearer’s beau, and that’s about the extent of adult sexiness I can imagine associated with this garment.

VUOKKO Iloinen takkiHowever, her signature spare, geometric style were evident from the beginning, as you can see in her split color wool blouse of 1956 and her Ritsa apron with “Raituli” stripes of 1959. And now, these are  questionably sexy body obsfucating garments I can stand behind, absolutely.

Vuokko dress 1

Vuokko sweater

In 1964, Vuokko left Marimekko to found her own company, Vuokko Oy, which she ran until 1988 and still runs a version of today. Left to her own devices, the body obliteration + spare geometry were turned up to full force and the vibe got super hot!

VUOKKO NURMESNIEMI striped dress

VUOKKO NURMESNIEMI circle dress

VUOKKO NURMESNIEMI toga

VUOKKO NURMESNIEMI group

VUOKKO NURMESNIEMI dots

VUOKKO NURMESNIEMI records

HER HOME
and office/studio in Helsinki was designed from top to bottom in 1970 by her late husband Antii Nurmesniemi (who also designed, for example, the Wärtsilä coffee pot for Arabia). It is open except for the bedroom with big views of the sea. Four mezzanines, including the swimming pool level which I have not seen a picture of but would love to see a picture of, stacks of Vuokko’s floor pillows and a heated floor = heavenplace.

VUOKKO NURMESNIEMI at home

VUOKKO NURMESNIEMI home 3

VUOKKO NURMESNIEMI home 5

VUOKKO NURMESNIEMI home 2

HER DEAL
(those glasses)

VUOKKO NURMESNIEMI portraitPortrait with plants by Anna Huovinen.

RESOURCES
-We stock the Marimekko book at the shop, and it includes a bunch of images and information about Vuokko and Marimekko overall. It is, hands-down, the book we consult most when trying to forge through a new design.

-Apartamento ran a wonderful profile of Vuokko in Issue #07, featuring an interview with her and shots from her home, including the first two I posted in the series, and “I got rid of most of the seams and pleats. The Japanese say ‘Vuokko set women free.’ See, my design always starts from the fabric. I want to give the patterns a lot of solid surface, which often affects the shape of the final dress, loosening it up” and other gems. Track it down!

-Ebay.

Stacy Fisher

7 August 2014
Cassie McGettigan

Stacy Fisher, Yellow and Grey Sculpture on Wood, 2011Yellow and Grey Sculpture on Wood, 2011

Installation by Stacy Fisher at Mixed GreensGreen Sculpture with Painting, 2011

Stacy Fisher, Orange and Tan Wall Sculpture, 2011Orange and Tan Wall Sculpture, 2011

Stacy Fisher, Installation View at BravinLee ProgramsFamiliar Places, 2013

Dag, Stacy Fisher! Doin’ it! Check out: stacyfisher.net

We’re Hiring!

6 August 2014
Cassie McGettigan

photo (1) (400x400)

 

We’re hiring a part time sales associate! 

Be available weekends 

Be willing to work during holiday times

Be joyful!

Email resumes to tomra@gravelandgold.com 

 

For Kiddos

6 August 2014
Cassie McGettigan

  meditation circlemeditation circle

meditating with childrenmeditation tree

meditation drawingmeditation boy plaid

Excellent exercises and attitude available from Deborah Rozman, Meditating with Children, also 1975.

At Alite

6 August 2014
Cassie McGettigan

Jean sewing an alite backpack

Our friends at Alite have shared a wonderful behind the scenes look at how our collaborative Panda Face Bike to the Beach Bag came to be. For example, here is Jean sewing the bags over at Alite HQ. Check it out!

LM

5 August 2014
Cassie McGettigan

yoga red lionWake Up to Yogayoga red danceryoga green twistyoga black shoulder standyoga blue cobrayoga green fold

Wake Up to Yoga by Lyn Marshall, 1975. And you know it really is Lyn Marshall by the strong LM patch she’s got on all of her rainbow leotards.

PLAYLIST: Renewed Vow Blessings

30 July 2014
Lisa Foti-Straus

Tom & Deb

Blessings on Tom & Deborah, Tomra’s parents, who are renewing their vows after 35 years of marriage! Let us enjoy 35 tracks in their honor.

5 THINGS

20 July 2014
Cassie McGettigan

Tomra on a rock

I am grateful to Leigh Patterson for inviting me to share 5 THINGS I’m into right now on Alldayevery. Please enjoy!

PLAYLIST: 2 MEN WILL MOVE YOU

16 July 2014
Lisa Foti-Straus

2 MEN playlist for Gravel & Gold

DJ / HOST and MERRYMAKER Primo Preems gives us up to DANCE! More majorly in person at Amnesia this Saturday.

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